Why would someone want to promote bird activity in their backyard? Birds are apart of the local ecosystem of your yard – and can provide a great many benefit to you as a home owner! (For example : Pest Control, Flower Pollination, Weed Control, Wildlife Conservation and even Stress Relief – they are so fun to watch!)
Attracting birds to your yard or garden is easy! All you need to provide is the basic necessities to meet their needs and keep them interested and returning.
FOOD: By supplying a variety of bird feed you will attract birds with different food preferences.
In early to mid May we expect the migration of the beautiful Baltimore Orioles through Manitoba – these birds are a wonderful addition to your common yearly bird but will only be a short visitor, so they are usually a popular one to try and attract. For hummingbirds and Orioles you will need nectar, which can be purchased ready-made or prepared at home.
Hummingbird Nectar – One part sugar – Four parts water
Oriole Nectar – One part sugar – Six parts water
Boil both mixtures to become a syrup (do not use food colouring or honey, which can be harmful to birds)
You can pick up the specific feeders here at Oakridge both for Orioles, which has a perch (just like the one pictured), and Hummingbirds. Besides the feeders many annuals and perennials, especially those with tubular flowers will attract Hummingbirds as well (ask us for suggestions).
For other backyard feeding options, Sunflower seed is great for Chickadees, Finches and Jays.
Nyjer seed is loved by Goldfinches, Pine Siskins and Purple Finches. Buy a good feeder that doesn’t waste seed as it is expensive.
Suet is a winter treat for Chickadees and Woodpeckers. Even though it is used mostly through the winter months, you should make sure that suet is available in very early spring. The babies need suet as their stomachs can’t yet digest seed.
Feed your birds through all the seasons of the year. Birds need food all summer as well as winter. Spring and Fall snow storms may stop birds from getting their natural food sources. If you don’t feed them they may parish.
Plan to have proper shelter for your birds as well! Plant shrubs and trees that will give them the shelter that they need and also some of the food sources to fatten up. Here is a list of trees and shrubs that can give your birds what they need.
Nanking cherry, Elder, Saskatoon, Mountain Ash, Sandcherry, Cranberry, Nannyberry, Flowering Crabapples
WATER: Provide a bird bath, fountain or fish pond for your birds. Be sure to always be refreshing the water to ensure that you don’t unintentionally breed the dreaded “Manitoba Mosquito” – which lay eggs in standing bodies of water.
NESTING SITES: Provide bird houses, nesting ledges, and plenty of shrubs and mature trees to provide cover and nesting sites.
If you do this, you’ll be rewarded with plenty of birds, less insects and less weeds to pull in your yard – and who doesn’t love seeing all the different types of birds that we get here in Manitoba!
Just like how kids go up a shoe size (or three) every year or so, houseplants can get a little too big for their pots and may become root bound if you don’t repot them. However, it isn’t quite as simple as just switching out the pot for a bigger one. Plants have very delicate root systems, functioning kind of like the plant’s brain and regulating many different processes. If you scramble the roots up too much, you could end up with a plant that’s damaged beyond repair. If you want to start repotting rootbound houseplants in Steinbach, Oakridge has all the necessary tools, methods, and know-how to help you pull it off like a pro.
What Happens When A Plant Gets Root Bound?
When a plant is root bound, their roots have grown so big that they’re packed tightly in the container and have nowhere else to go. They likely won’t be able to grow much bigger, and the amount of nutrients they can take in from the soil is very limited.
The symptoms of a root bound plant are pretty similar to an underwatered houseplant, so if you’ve been watering regularly and your plant has brown or yellow leaves, is starting to wilt or has stunted growth, there’s a good chance it could be root bound. You may also notice roots poking up above the soil surface—a clear sign that they’ve got nowhere else to go.
To be certain your houseplant is root bound, the most accurate way to check is to get a good look at the roots. You’ll have to slide the plant out of the container, and if the container isn’t flexible and your plant is super root bound, this might not be the easiest task. Try easing it out with a small knife, loosening it up all around the edges to coax it out.
Which Plants Like To Be Root Bound?
Before you get to repotting root bound plants in time for spring, it’s important to keep in mind that some plants actually prefer being root bound! Some, like the Christmas Cactus, will only blossom if they’re under a bit of stress, which a cramped container will provide. Others, like the spider plant, will be able to thrive in a bigger container, but won’t produce those little plant pups to pop off and grow into new plants. Here are some common houseplants that will do best if you just leave them be:
African Violet
Aloe
Peace Lily
Asparagus Fern
Spider Plant
Snake Plant
Christmas Cactus
Agapanthus
Boston Fern
Ficus
Jade Plant
Umbrella Tree
Repotting Root Bound Plant: The 3 Methods
When your houseplant is root bound, there are three ways to fix it. The proper method depends on the kind of houseplant you’re dealing with, and the severity of the root compaction. If you’re unsure of which method to use, feel free to speak with one of our experts at Oakridge and we’ll help you troubleshoot the situation. In the meantime, here are the three classic methods for solving root compaction:
Loosen And Repot: If your plant is moderately compacted and the roots aren’t matted all around the root ball, you can get away with just placing it in a new pot after gently loosening up the roots. Make sure you water your plant the day before repotting, to help soften the roots up and eliminate any crusty, dry soil clumping them together. If the roots have gathered into a tangled ball at the bottom and anchored into the drainage holes, untangle them as gently as possible from the pot and clean up broken roots before repotting.
Add a few inches of soil to the new, bigger pot with a mix of potting soil and compost, place the plant in, and lightly fill the rest of the container space with more soil without packing it down too much. The plant’s main stem should not sit any deeper below the soil line than it did before it was repotted. Make sure the pot has drainage holes, and is placed on a tray or other container where the water can drain out freely. Avoid watering your repotted houseplant until this soil has dried out.
Prune The Roots: If you don’t necessarily want your houseplant to grow any bigger, but the compacted roots are limiting the amount of soil nutrition it can absorb, you can try pruning the roots. Remove the plant from its pot and slice down the sides of the thread roots (smaller, hair-like roots) up to three times using a sharp, clean knife. The tap roots, which are thicker, should be left intact, because trimming these could really injure your plant. If your plant is looking pretty worse for wear, it might not be a good plan to prune the roots, as it might not be resilient enough to withstand the shock of trimming. Otherwise, if your plant still looks fairly healthy and green, a little pruning can go a long way.
Divide The Root Ball: Plants that grow from a centralized crown and have a clumping habit are meant to be divided up every few years. Some can handle it easily, while others are a bit more sensitive to having their roots disturbed, so it’s better to divide them during the winter when they’re dormant. Dividing root balls is pretty easy—just try to untangle the roots gently, and then using a sharp knife, split the root ball into two or three sections. Repot each section into a clean pot with fresh soil and compost, and instead of having one dreary-looking houseplant, you’ll be left with several plants with a new lease on life!
If you need any tools, fresh potting soil, or even some new houseplants, come visit us at Oakridge and we’ll get you all set up! We’re so excited for gardening season to begin, and sometimes a little indoor houseplant care can help get the ball rolling and provide us with inspiration for our upcoming garden projects.
In Manitoba, it can be tough to feel cheerful in February early March. The short days, bone-chilling temperatures, and snow-clogged roads all remind us how long it will be before we’ll see any signs of life outside. But during this time of year, the best thing we can do is embrace it!
The days may be short, but perhaps that can motivate us to find creative ways of bringing light into our spirits. The roads may not always be clear, but maybe we can use the time indoors to start dreaming up our master plan for this year’s annuals and edibles. The mercury may be plunging, but perhaps that means it’s the perfect time to curl up and ‘plunge’ into a good book in front of the fireplace. And perhaps we can do all three of these things at once. Here are some fabulous gardening books to pick up this month.
Colour Your Garden: Exciting Mixtures of Bulbs and Perennials by Jacqueline van der Kloet
Fans of bulbs and perennials will love this guide for capturing and enhancing the colours and shapes of these magnificent plants. Author Jacqueline van der Kloet offers practical tips and guides for creating stunning combinations for gardens of all
sizes – from airy landscapes to balcony-sized container gardens. This is a must-read for those of us who get a rush from watching our spring tulips bloom!
Escape to Reality: How the World is Changing Gardening, and Gardening is Changing the World by Mark Cullen
For those who crave the soul-nourishing pleasures of gardening, Canadian gardening guru Mark Cullen’s recent release is the gardener’s very own Chicken Soup for the Soul. With beautiful design, touching
narratives, and practical tips, Cullen’s collaborative work – co-written with his son, Ben – explores not just how we garden, but why.
Up in the Garden and Down in the Dirt by Christopher Silas Neal and Kate Messner
You’d have to dig deep to find a better way to introduce young people to gardening than Up in the Garden and Down in the Dirt. For parents and grandparents who wish to spark a curiosity about gardening in young readers, this book is equally filled with adorable illustrations, bedtime-worthy lyricism, and teachable information about the garden ecosystem. It’s the perfect way to share our love of the garden with our little ones and get them itching to explore the outdoors in the springtime.
Vegetables, Chickens & Bees: An Honest Guide to Growing Your Own Food Anywhere by Carson Arthur
You might recognize Carson Arthur as the host and garden expert on shows like Better Homes and Gardens’ Home, First Home, Global’s Room to Grow, and HGTV’s Green
Force. If you’ve been a fan of his, you’ll be excited to hear of the upcoming release of his first book. In Vegetables, Chickens & Bees, Arthur imparts the wisdom he’s gained over his 20-year career with an unconventional gardening book – to be released on February 26, 2019 – that speaks to a younger crowd of homeowners.
Prairie Garden 2019 Growing Food by the Prairie Garden Committee
Guest-edited by urban farming and gardening expert Tiffany Grenkow, the latest edition of the Prairie Garden Committee’s Prairie Garden guideis set to be released on February 24, 2019! This issue will be
focusing on the edible gardening trend, but will cover so much more. Look forward to over 50 articles produced by local gardening experts, all with invaluable advice for growing gardens of all kinds in our region. If you’ll be in the Winnipeg area on the 24th, you can even attend the book launch at the Grant Park location of McNally Robinson at 2:00 pm.
During these bleary days when the snow won’t let you into your garden, let your imagination take you there instead. We hope you find some inspiration in these titles, and maybe a new perspective to serve you well when the snow melts!
Transitioning Your Tropicals from Winter to Spring
Every Manitoban can appreciate the newfound energy that comes with the longer days of spring. As the sunset grows later by the day and the snow and ice begin to melt, new buds on the trees and shrubs start to swell in anticipation of spring. While most of the action is happening outdoors, we mustn’t forget that our houseplants are experiencing a transition, too!
As we gain more sunlight, tropical houseplants begin to move out of their winter dormancy. Just like a family of hibernating bears, this awakening from sleep is accompanied by a change in needs and a hunger for food and water! Here’s how to accommodate your indoor tropicals and ease them into spring.
Water More Frequently
Dormant plants are essentially frozen in time; they’re conserving energy rather than focusing on new growth and therefore consume very little water. When dormancy ends, the plant enters a growing period, and the need for water increases substantially. Most of your indoor tropicals will need to be watered every 7 days throughout spring and summer to keep up with the demands of the season.
Begin Applying Fertilizer
Ask anyone who has trained for the Manitoba Marathon, and they’ll tell you that proper nutrition is just as important as thorough hydration. The same goes for your tropicals. Now that the winter is over, fertilizer is more important than ever to give your plants the nutritional boost it needs to grow and thrive throughout the season.
Begin applying fertilizer approximately eight weeks before the last expected spring frost, which is typically just before May long weekend in Steinbach. In mid-March, start using water-soluble fertilizer at half strength. Water your tropicals thoroughly first, then make a half-strength solution of water and fertilizer and pour in onto the soil surface (avoid splashing on the plant’s foliage). Another method is to pour the solution into a saucer and place the plant pot on top. This method allows the solution to soak into the soil via the drainage holes, bringing the fertilizer closer to the root system. Apply using this method bi-weekly until the last frost has passed.
Once spring has officially arrived, transition to full-strength fertilizer according to the package directions. Continue to fertilize bi-weekly, or according to the needs of your plant.
Repot As Needed
If you notice your plant roots have started to creep through the drainage holes of their pots, now is the perfect time to repot them. Timing is everything when it comes to repotting houseplants—you want them still a little dormant, which reduces stress on the plant, but close to a period of rapid growth, during which the plant can recover from any damage sustained from the move.
Repot your tropicals on a day when they’re due for water, but not fertilizer. Water the plant thirty minutes to an hour prior to repotting. When choosing a new home for your plant, a pot with drainage holes is best. Prepare the new pot with a layer of fresh, sterile potting soil at the bottom. Remove your tropical from its old pot by gently tilting the pot to the side and slowly sliding the root ball out into your hand. Avoid grasping or tugging the plant by the stem. Once the plant is out of the old pot, gently tease the root ball apart to release old soil and separate the roots. Place the plant in the centre of the new pot and backfill around the sides with fresh soil. Add soil until the plant stands in place, tamp it down firmly, and water again to settle.
Dust Off the Leaves
Sunlight is as vital to your tropicals as water, fertilizer, and soil. Our Manitoba winters leave us with a very dusty indoor environment thanks to those long months of dry air from the furnace. When the dust settles on your tropicals’ leaves, it blocks out sunlight and slows down the process of photosynthesis. Furthermore, dusty plants are an eyesore!
If your plant has large, broad leaves, it may be easiest to simply wipe the front and back of the leaves with a soft, damp cloth. Plants with finer foliage may be easier to clean in the shower under a gentle stream of cool water. Once your plants have been dusted off, apply Miracle-Gro Leaf Shine to give them a beautiful, glossy sheen.
Once spring arrives, your tropical plants will come alive with healthy, vigorous growth and better defences against pests and disease. Meanwhile, you’ll enjoy starting the new growing season surrounded by beautiful, vibrant greenery.
Maple trees have long been known to have some of the finest displays of fall colour. While common in Ontario and Québec, very few maples are native to zone 3 areas like ours in Steinbach. However, we can still enjoy fall maples here in Manitoba! Thanks to the hard work of commercial breeders, there are a few maple cultivars that can transport that beautiful autumn colour into your backyard. Here are our favourite hardy fall maples for Manitoba landscapes.
‘Silver Cloud’ Silver Maple
This maple variety is a fair bit different from the more traditional sugar maple, however, its lobed foliage does have that classic patriotic shape. The leaves are a deep green with silvery undersides, and the bark is a lovely silver colour as well. Primarily grown as a shade tree, Silver Cloud grows to a stately 50’ height with a 40’ spread.
Silver Cloud isn’t typical of most fall maples. While this maple does change colours in the fall, the leaves reach a buttery yellow shade rather than deepening to the reds and golds characteristics of other maples. All the same, Silver Cloud has plenty of ornamental value! Instead of red fall foliage, this maple bears very attractive clusters of red flowers in spring before the leaves emerge.
‘Autumn Blaze’
While sometimes sold as a zone 4 tree, there’s a consensus among many zone 3 nurseries (ourselves included) that Autumn Blaze does very well in our cooler climate. This maple is similar in size and canopy to the Ontario red maples we so admire, with an average height of 40-60’ tall.
When it comes to fall colour, the name really says it all. Autumn Blaze’s fall palette of fiery red-orange is nothing short of jaw-dropping. Earlier in the season, the tree is still highly ornamental with medium-green leaves with silvery undersides and attractive red twigs.
Amur Maple
If it’s fall colour and compact size you’re after, you can’t go wrong with Amur maples. These compact maple trees fit nicely into small spaces of the yard, reaching only 20’ tall with an 18’ spread. The foliage of the Amur maple has a more slender profile than the broad, lobed leaves of the more traditional fall maples, but the colours are just as punchy. In late summer, the bright green foliage is joined by bright-red samaras that add extra colour to the landscape.
Once summer fades into fall, the real show begins. Amur’s foliage matures into breathtaking shades of orange, scarlet, and deep currant red. There are a few forms of Amur maple that indicate their growth habit, but each are low-maintenance trees for high-impact fall interest. You just don’t see many trees this vibrant during the fall in Steinbach!
‘Hot Wings’ Maple
This small but attractive tree has a unique look compared to most maples. In spring, white flowers emerge before the serrated oval leaves settle in. In the summer, the namesake ruby-red samaras appear in abundant clusters. As fall maples go, the colours of Hot Wings has an unusual but captivating beauty. The inner leaves mature to golden yellow while the leaves on the outer branches turn blazing shades of red and orange. The effect gives the tree the appearance of being engulfed in flames!
Hot Wings offers big colour without the big footprint—it’s a dwarf cultivar that reaches 15-18’ in height and spread. Its rounded habit makes it a neat accent tree that requires very little pruning.
For those who can’t get enough red, the Prairie Rouge® maple delivers. Like Silver Cloud, Prairie Rouge® produces red flower clusters in spring ahead of the foliage. However, its leaves emerge red instead of green, maturing to green only for the late spring and summer. As the leaves turn green, the red colour is transferred to its bright red samaras. Finally, when fall arrives, the leaves take on a spectacular true red colour that must be seen to be believed.
It could be said that this fall maple combines the most desirable features of the Amur and Silver Cloud maples. The leaf shape and early spring display more resemble the Silver Cloud, whereas the samaras and fall colour are closer to what you’d see on the Amur. The height lands somewhere in the middle, reaching 30’ tall with a 15’ spread.
While they certainly aren’t as common around here, it is possible to enjoy the beauty of fall maples here in Manitoba. We recommend planting your maple in September to help it prepare for the winter. This will allow some extra time for the roots to establish, whereas other trees can be planted right up until the frost. To purchase a fall maple, or discover other shrubs and trees with remarkable fall interest, visit us today at our garden centre.
“Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.”
-Albert Camus
After a long, hot summer, the crisp, cool air of fall is often welcome. The leaves decorate the landscape in beautiful, warm and fiery hues that seem almost to contradict the chill in the air, creating a sensory samba in our minds. While the trees are dropping their leaves and our garden beds are winding down, there’s still plenty of fall planting that can be done here in Manitoba.
Trees and Shrubs
Fall, along with spring, is one of the best times to plant your trees and shrubs. While many fear their newly planted arrivals won’t last through the colder weather, the truth is that they appreciate the calm temperatures that won’t stress them out.
For deciduous trees and shrubs, you can plant late into fall, whether the trees are still actively growing or have gone dormant. In their state of hibernation, they are less prone to shock than if they are moved around at the peak of their growing season.
Evergreens may be stunning year-round, but the heat of the summer is best enjoyed for them if they are well-rooted and in place. Cool seasons, like fall, are a much more relaxed time for them and won’t stress them out like a Manitoba heat wave would.
To plant your tree or shrub, dig a hole that is twice as deep and as wide as the root ball. Carefully place your tree in the hole and backfill with rich, black soil with plenty of aeration. Water the roots well and mulch to protect them, being careful not to let the mulch touch the bark of the tree to prevent rot.
Spring Bulbs
It may seem odd to plan so far ahead, but planting your spring bulbs now will ensure they are ready to burst from the ground as soon as possible when the frost ebbs. No longer will you need to wait for the ground to thaw enough for you to work into it, because your bulbs will already be eagerly waiting to
get to work as soon as they can.
To plant your spring bulbs – like daffodils, squills, tulips, and snowdrops – find a nice, sunny spot in your garden so they can make the most of the light in the spring. Dig a hole that is 2 – 3” deep for hardy bulbs, or 6 – 8” for less hardy ones (like daffodils), and drop your bulb in pointy side up. Fill in the hole and water well to ensure they freeze to last through the winter. Mulch is also a good idea to give them an extra layer of protection.
Cool season vegetables are those that need the cold to help them germinate to produce early spring harvests of delicious, garden-fresh goodness. While you can plant them in late winter, when they will start germinating, pre-seeding them in winter will allow them to get to work as soon as the thaw starts
and the cold weather may even make them taste better!
The best cool-season vegetables to pre-seed in fall are your leafy greens – like lettuce, spinach, arugula, and kale – as well as garlic and radish. Plant your seeds just after a nice, deep frost to ensure it’s too cold for them to germinate and mulch well to insulate them for the winter.
While our gardens may be fading and our time outside is quickly being replaced with warmer endeavours indoors, there’s still lots we can do in the garden to prepare for spring. By planting your trees, shrubs, bulbs, and early vegetables now, you’ll be setting yourself up for success in the coming growing season for the best year your garden has seen yet!
Removing plant debris and raking in the fall can greatly reduce the pests and disease that can harm your plants in the over wintering process. Giving your garden beds that quick clean-up can keep them looking good longer into the fall season and will give your plants a better chance of surviving our cold winters!
Don’t throw away those coffee grounds!
After that fresh morning cup of coffee, don’t dump those coffee grounds into the garbage – use them to nourish your garden! Use them by adding into your compost or work the grounds straight into the soil around your plants.
The grounds from coffee will benefit your plant in a few different ways – they add organic matter back into the soil and with that improves the aeration and drainage of the soil – and will attract those desired earthworms!
The grounds will also slightly lower the pH of the soil – and in Manitoba, with our alkaline clay-like soil, that is a wonderful thing! Some of our customers even swear by using coffee grounds to deter slugs around their Hosta plants and also keeps cats from digging in the garden!
So once you’ve cleaned up your garden for the end of the season – throw in those grounds – your plants will thank you!
These are our two recommended steps to do in the fall to make sure that your garden is on its way to a safe and happy sleep for winter and will thrive come spring time!
With summer winding down and the days becoming shorter, it’s time to prepare our indoor plants for the months ahead. Check out these tips for getting your plants ready for Fall.
Bring Your Plants Indoors
If your indoor plants have been outside enjoying the warmth and humidity of summer, it’s time to bring them inside once nighttime temperatures begin to dip below 10°C. While chillier temperatures still above freezing won’t kill most houseplants, they can cause leaf drop and signal your plant to go into dormancy.
To check for any little critters that may have taken up residence on your plant, be sure to look closely at the top and underside of the leaves as well as the stems. Remove any debris, like dead leaves, that has gathered on the soil surface where critters typically like to hide. If you happen upon any insects, remove them by wiping down the leaves thoroughly. If you find an infestation, an organic neem oil spray can be used to help deter the pests.
Give Your Plants a Shower
At the turn of each season, give your plants a thorough shower with a gentle spray of lukewarm water. This is the perfect time to leach any salt build-up out of the soil by letting the water run freely out of the bottom of the pot. The shower will also clean off any dust that has collected on the foliage. Not only will your plant look nice and clean, but it will also be better protected from insects that like to lurk on dusty leaves.
If you find dust still lingering on your plant’s leaves post-shower, wipe them down with a microfibre cloth to remove any remaining dirt or dust.
Feed Once More Before Winter
After their shower, take advantage of the damp soil and recharge with nutrients for the last time this year. Be careful not to overdo it—we suggest using a water-soluble all-purpose fertilizer mixed at half the recommended strength.
Trim Aged or Unsightly Leaves
To continue cleaning up your plants, take care to trim any yellow or browning leaves with sharp, clean plant shears. Be sure to disinfect the shears with rubbing alcohol after each snip in order to minimize the spread of bacteria or any disease from plant to plant.
Find The Best Lighting
As the days get shorter, the sun is lower in the sky, changing the way sunlight enters your space. If you have nearby shade trees that drop their leaves come fall, this can also allow more direct light to enter your space. Where you placed your plant in the spring and summer may not be the best lighting scenario for it during the fall and winter. Take note of how the light enters your space and adjust your plant’s placement according to their lighting preference.
In the case that you find your plant isn’t getting sufficient light, consider incorporating a grow light into your space.
Repot When Needed
Has your plant outgrown its pot? To check, gently lift your plant out of the pot and observe the roots. If the roots are coiling around the bottom of the pot, or even growing through the drainage holes or out of the top of the soil, then it’s time to size up and repot in a larger planter.
Your summer activities of going to the beach, playing golf and family barbeques has dramatically slowed. You may be out in the yard doing your fall clean-ups and notice the beautiful colours that are present. Why not add to those and plant a tree, shrub, or perennial that will not only fill that empty location but improve the amount of fall colours! Plus Fall is well known to be one of the best times in the year to plant as the weather is cooler and will create less transplant shock for your tree or shrub.
We have tons of great items that will do this for you. Linden trees are great at adding golden foliage to your landscape, just like the one featured in the photo above. Not only do they do this, but they also are one of the best shade providing trees out there. Maybe you’re looking for some red to really make a corner pop. This is where we would add an amur maple tree or shrub. These add wonderful amounts of red/ rusty orange colour just like the gorgeous example at the top of this email.
If you still want some flowers to hold out until late fall think of adding some perennials such as perennial mums or sedum. These plants add late flowering interest and make fall a little more bearable for those of us desperately trying to hold onto that last bit of “summer”. Also this time of year is when those hydrangeas can really start to show their true colours!
Fall is still a fabulous time to plant! We have fall sales running for our Trees, Shrubs and Perennials. It is a progressive sale – but come early and get the best available options!
Our lawns take up much of our yard space and whether your outdoor space boasts perennial beds and edible gardens, turf care is important in ensuring the health of our yards as a whole. With winter slowly fading and a new season of growth approaching, here are some tips to have a lush and healthy turf.
Waiting Game
As soon as the snow starts to recede, and you see grass peeking through it is easy to give in to the temptation to start spring lawn care right away. For a lot of us eager gardeners our first instinct is to grab a rake and leap into action – sometimes even when our yards are still caked in ice. Resist the instinct!
Working your lawn while it’s still wet and recovering from the winter can do much more harm than good. Heavy feet can compact the soil or break emerging shoots and all your early work could be for nothing if you damage your grass and give the weeds a head start.
Dealing with Snow Mould
Snow mould (typhula blight) is very common for us, thanks to our long, snowy winters. It can be ugly to look at – fungus forming silvery-grey patches on the lawn – and it can be tough on seasonal allergies, but, thankfully, it goes away as your lawn dries off. Unless it’s thick enough to choke your grass or causes you discomfort, don’t even bother raking it off, let time work its magic.
If you’re itching for something to do as the lawn dries, consider sharpening your mower blades. Waiting while your lawn is in plain sight can be tough but improving the condition of your mower will set you up for a summer with a healthy lawn. Sharp blades will shear the grass instead of tearing it, resulting in healthier turf. While you’re at it, remember to change the oil, spark plug, and filters regularly too.
For the most impatient and keen gardeners among us, the waiting can be hurried by spreading out leftover snow from the shady spots of your lawn. Your lawn will dry sooner, more evenly, and you’ll be left with less snow mould in the most protected areas of your lawn.
Raking and Top-Dressing
Once the thatch is dried your lawn is ready for you to “spring” into action! Give everything a good rake, especially with older lawns or those that have a half inch or more of thatch. You don’t need to clear all the thatch, but excessive amounts can be a breeding ground for pests and mildew.
Once you’ve got your thatch down to a healthy quarter inch or so, you can work on nurturing your lawn. Top dress any sparse areas right away so your lawn still has a chance to beat out the weed seeds that are swiftly germinating.
Top Dressing How-To
Start by throwing a quarter or half inch of potting soil across sparse patches. The organic nutrients in the soil will help feed your lawn for the upcoming growing season. Top seed over your new soil – if your area has a lot of hungry birds, dusting some more soil over your new seed will disguise their lunch.
Fertilizing and Aerating
Spring is all about giving your lawn what it needs to be healthy and lush all summer! Aerating your lawn pulls plugs out to give your lawn’s cramped root system some air. Whether you rent a machine yourself or hire a company, this is great for the long-term health of your turf. Aeration is an especially important step in lawn care for older lawns or those that have been compacted by high traffic.
Fertilizing gives your grass the fuel it needs to grow healthy and strong. Your grass won’t be awake and hungry as soon as the snow melts. Fertilizing your dormant lawn is not only a waste of time, effort, and money, and it could end up giving fuel to weeds that wake up quicker in the spring. You’ll have the best results if you wait to fertilize when your grass is green and growing.
Thankfully, the days of blasting your lawn with a high-nitrogen mix and a hose are over. Most lawn fertilizers are now slow release, so they will feed your lawn steadily over weeks and months, and you won’t have to worry about burning your roots.
FOOD: By supplying a variety of bird feed you will attract birds with different food preferences.
Dealing with Snow Mould
Raking and Top-Dressing
Top Dressing How-To
Fertilizing and Aerating